Wine of the month: Phincas DSG 2011
WINE OF THE MONTH - PHINCAS DSG
David Sampedro Gil is a young oenologist with a fairly impressive curriculum vitae. Over the last 10 years, he has crafted some remarkable wines in Rioja, Navarra, Salamanca and in some regions of Germany. Alongside Bruno Murciano, former chief sommelier of the Ritz Hotel in London, he has rescued from oblivion the Bobal grape, an extremely promising Spanish indigenous variety. During these years David Sampedro Gil has also developed a vinification style much of his own and, perhaps most importantly, he has proven to have a very clear a idea of what makes a wine great.
Phincas DSG 2011 has a unique personality, as is the case with all of David Sampedro's wines. Made in the Rioja Alavesa from indigenous grape varieties, this terroir-oriented wine is an hommage to Spain's most important wine region. A region, incidentally, that David Sampedro thinks is in urgent need of renovation if it aspires to preserve its prestige and long-standing hegemony in the Spanish wine scene.
Phincas DSG 2011 is an example of what might be called the new Rioja style. The wine has a high ruby-coloured robe with a cherry-coloured rim which is quite suprising for a Rioja Alavesa red. On the nose, it displays aromas of raspberries, blackberries, blue flowers, roasted coffee, spices, balsam and, on the background, clear notions of terroir and some mineral undertones. The palate is fruity and lively, with great acidity, some intimations of balsam, flowers and spices, and a salty, mineral touch that is simply great. Long, persistent finish with some elegant, discreet wooden notes.
A different, offbeat Rioja by one of Spain's most promising winemakers.